When a plan doesn’t come together-McCalls 8324
McCalls 8324
A fail, but maybe a try again?
I love a open back top or dress despite my weight gain and back rolls (deal with it). I grabbed this pattern when it was dropped last year and cut my fabric with every intention of sewing it right away. For some reason I didn't get around to it before the temps cooled and I rarely sew something I can’t wear right away.
Sadly after waiting for warmer temps return to finish it this top is too small. At first I thought maybe I gained weight, but nope I’m still a 44” bust. After pulling out the pattern pieces I realized I cut a 20 C cup which has a 46” finished bust, so guess I underestimated how much ease is needed. I wanted it to be somewhat fitted so that I could wear it braless, but this fit is off all over.
Jessica, the_fashionable_therapist, agreed that the fit was weird for her as well and that made me feel better.
I may try this pattern again in a larger size. Admittedly based on the size chart I should’ve cut a 22. And although I’m a C cup based on my 2” difference I think I’ll cut a D to be safe.
Fabric:
This cotton is from Joann Fabrics, here and here. I grabbed it last year when they had some 2 yard cuts of various Black History Month prints on sale. (I also grabbed this one) I had no idea what I would make with either cut, because I almost never use 100% cotton, but when this pattern dropped I thought it would be a good pairing.
Unfortunately, I was wrong. I think this pattern would work better with a challis, chambray or rayon, somethin with a bit more drape. I thought that the cotton would just give bit more structured look and maybe it would in the right size.
Modifications:
While the pattern only calls for lining (or facing) for the back I decided to fully line the top. Mainly because I planned to wear this without a bra and I wanted something softer than cotton against my nipples! I used a brown satin for the lining. I simply cut the front pieces out in the lining fabric. I attached the front to the back at the shoulders and side seams for the fabric and lining. Then I basted the neck and armsyce before attaching the neckband and sleeves. Fully lining the top also allowed me to slip stitch the hem for a cleaner finish.
Lessons Learned:
Cut a 22 D
Add 2” to the hem
Use a ‘softer’ fabric
Summary:
Pattern: McCalls 8324
Pattern Description: Open back crop tops have short, three-quarter and long sleeves, and hook and eye back opening. View A has lacing back. View B ties back. View C has criss-cross back ties to front. Separate pattern pieces for A/B, C, D cup sizes.
Sizing: 6-14, 16-24
Does it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope? sorta
Were the instructions easy to follow: Yes they were clear
Would I recommend it to others? Not based on this first make