Lumberjack Plaid Coat - Butterick 6244
I'm usually not one to make a pattern more than once. After all there are so many beautiful patterns out there, I should know I have over 100 (I don't have an exact count because I refuse to count them). So I'm surprised that I have sewn up Butterick 6244 three times!!!
I made the first one for the Fabricista Fashion Challenge last year out of a camel fleece (here) and the second was a burgandy fleece version for a Christmas gift. This third one is a gorgeous black and white lumberjack plaid. I stumbled upon this gorgeous plaid with a hint of sparkle in Hancock Fabrics while searching for wool for my New Look 6324 cape (here). I had to have it because 1) I love black and white 2) I loved the hint of sparkle and 3) it was on clearance!
As far as the pattern itself you can read my previous review here, but I will share some changes I made. After making and wearing my fleece version I realized that I kept reaching for pockets that weren't there and that I really wanted a way to stop the jacket from flying open on windy days. Since customizing is a major bonus of sewing your own clothes I decided to add pockets and a belt. For the pockets I simply used a pocket pattern piece from another pattern for the pocket itself. After attaching the collar and flat sewing the sleeves I pinned the side seams (from sleeve to hem) and tried the coat on to decide where to place the pockets and marked that spot with pins then I attached the pockets and continued with the process.
For the belt I simply cut two rows of the plaid (about 4") by the width (60") of the fabric and sewed from both end to about 1" from the middle of the belt (leaving about a 2" opening for turning) then I topstitched the entire belt. Thankfully 60" is enough to tie around my waist, but I would have preferred a longer belt but I had only purchased enough fabric for the pattern and was working with the scraps I had left. I added belt loops above the pockets at each side seam.
Two small differences working with wool instead of fleece.
- With fleece I had left all the raw edges unfinished and on the wool I had to narrow hemming. While this did add time it didn't truly add any complexity.
- I was right and flat felled seams are easier on thinner fabric. The techique was a little tricky on the puffy fleece I had used in the past.
This is a great pattern that sews up easy but makes a statement. I'm done with this pattern this season but I can see myself pulling it out again next fall/winter.